Hooked Up
Active member
My preferred float rod length 10'6", conditions allowing. You can float fish just fine with your9'0".Kage said:
Tie a 8' or so mono bumper onto the braid, leader would be from weight to the hook.Kage said:
Missed strikes from mending issues
N
Native Fisher
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Kage said:
I have caught many many salmon on a 8-12lb steelhead rod in tidewater, and I have also caught a ton of coho and chinook on a 6-8lb steelhead rod looking for steelhead in late november/early december. Just don't high stick the rod and run your drag at a reasonable setting and you should never have a problem.
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Kage
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Next trip out I'll switch to my 9'6" rod for the control I have when using that rod. I'll just be careful when playing the fish if I hook into one. Never tried the bumper thing, do you make a line to line connection with that?
C
ChezJfrey
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Kage said:
Yes, line-to-line. I use an Alberto, which is essentially a double-wrapped Albright; braid wraps around an open-ended loop of the mono.
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Kage
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Thanks ChezJfrey, I'll have to look up that knot. I only know 4 or 5 and those two aren't either of them.
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Modest_Man
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Why use a long bumper when float fishing? Just run 18-24" of mono off the inline weight...
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ChezJfrey
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Modest_Man said:
I do it to save wear/fraying of the braid from the sliding action of the float.
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Willerman
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Kage said:
Unless it is a horrible quality rod, I don't think your steelhead rod will snap on a steelhead. I landed one this winter on a very old 6'6 rod that I use for bass fishing.
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espencer757
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IMO, most people don't break them on the fish (although it has happened), most people break them while trying to free a snag.
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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igot_it
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Try fly flotant on the section of line that runs between the float and where the belly picks off the water. It keeps the line floating on top of the surface film instead of in it. Make sure to reapply often....
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ibryce
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The best solution is to get as high above the hole as you can so that you're letting you line out toward the wind. Not always possible, I know. Also, keep your line low and in the water. As soon as your bait hits the water, lower your line and let the current take it down stream rather than trying to keep it high and off the water. You're not going to get a beautiful drag free drift in those conditions so you have to go unconventional to get a decent presentation rather than a perfect one.
If you can manage to get a small bow in your line, ahead of your float, that'll help push it downstream. This is more of a bobber doggin approach and it works. In the conditions you're describing, the way I do this is to cast hard and then stop the line fairly harshly when my gear is close to hitting the water. This will make your gear pop toward you and put a bow in the line. If you're using roe, this method will be ruff on it. You may want to use spawn sacks, yarnies and/or beads. Good luck out there!
If you can manage to get a small bow in your line, ahead of your float, that'll help push it downstream. This is more of a bobber doggin approach and it works. In the conditions you're describing, the way I do this is to cast hard and then stop the line fairly harshly when my gear is close to hitting the water. This will make your gear pop toward you and put a bow in the line. If you're using roe, this method will be ruff on it. You may want to use spawn sacks, yarnies and/or beads. Good luck out there!
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