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GreenDrifter
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ninja2010 said:does this apply to salmon too? i thought they hang deep and low...
The salmon will be down there.
ninja2010 said:does this apply to salmon too? i thought they hang deep and low...
GreenDrifter said:The salmon will be down there.
GreenDrifter said:The salmon will be down there.
ArcticAmoeba said:You are not fishing the right water.
I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong....Most of the time 'nooks hang in different spots of the river than steelies. Ya you can pull a nook and some steele outta the same spot sometimes, but like ol' Billy says, " The random cast will produce the random fish". There is the rare occasion when fishing for summers, and the water clarity is good, you can see a Chinook and a Steelhead holding in the same pocket. But if ya watch em real good and long enough, you will see who the alpha fish is....ninja2010 said:does this apply to salmon too? i thought they hang deep and low...
Kodiak said:Junction City Pond:lol:
ArcticAmoeba said:GD is one of my buds. He has a green drift boat! Fancy the moniker...:lol:
And FishSchooler, of course I would say that...Steelhead don't hang oot in deep pools. Just not their bag perhaps. But where will you be fishin for steelhead, that are not in rivers?
ArcticAmoeba said:Steelhead bobber fishin in a creek, or small river, compared to Steelhead bobber fishin in the Columbia... They are a completely different beast. I would rig a slip float, on a 9'6" bobber rod if I were to ever bobber dog in that River. Which I wouldn't, but if I did. Drift fishing is far more effective for me, even from the bank of the Columbia. The fish still run in less than 15 feet of water out there for the most part.
ninja2010 said:okay, i have another question about bobber fishing.
does anyone rig their weight on the leader close to the hook? (i think this helps the casting tremendously.)
or do you normally rig it close to the swivel connecting the leader to main line?
how about spacing 3-4 split shots all along the leader?
Catch 22 said:From the regs:
All weight, if not part of a conventional lure, must be attached above the hooks. When using single-point hooks larger than
5/8‑inch gap or multiple-point hooks, the attachment of the weight must be 18 inches or more above uppermost hook.
iliketofish said:we call Bobbers "floats" up here in British Columbia. Many of the rivers I fish are smaller and shallower so I mostly use "cigar" or "dink" floats which are very easy to adjust and good to use in water that is less than 10 feet deep. I personally use the pencil lead weights or a slinky and attach it to a 3 way swivel (or I'll rig the weight just below the float on the main line so that the weight slides); but I almost never attach any weights (split shots) to the leader because it only will weaken the strength of your leader...it really sucks when your leader breaks!:wall:
FishSchooler said:Welcome to OFF!
I like "cigar" floats because, their slim/longer body reduces tangles and when a fish takes it, it will slide under the water easily. They also dont have as much drag in the current, and you can see them fall when a fish hits.
I am curious about your rig... could you describe it more spefically, better with a picture? So you have a 3 way swivel beneath the float, and on of the eyes has a slinky, and the other to a leader? That is kind of like a drift rig beneath a float right?
Welcome!
Catch 22 said:From the regs:
All weight, if not part of a conventional lure, must be attached above the hooks. When using single-point hooks larger than
5/8‑inch gap or multiple-point hooks, the attachment of the weight must be 18 inches or more above uppermost hook.