M
macken
0
I thought I would try and make a sport that seems quite complicated to new people easier to understand and be productive in the shortest amount of time. I have been fly fishing for about 40yrs now and am in no way a - what is it called- purist. Fly fishing is a tool to be used as a means to an end; enjoyment, catching fish where it is the only method allowed or as in the case with most people who fly fish, the satisfaction of making something work that is not always the easiest way.
I don't fish for salmon and steelhead any more; must be an age thing, but on the north coast started that when people thought I was crazy. I was making my own fly lines and doing things by the seat of my pants. That I am aware of no one was catching chums and spring chinook on the fly before me in my area. I'm much smarter now and have learned not to force something that has little chance of working. The first little tip is to learn to pick and choose your battles. A fly rod is not a drift rod and no matter what you do, there a runs you can not fish and be successful. So following are just a few simple thoughts that will help give beginners a place to start on this wonderful way to fish.
Rods: There are 3 main actions to rods. Moderate, moderate fast, and fast. Someone learning to flyfish is better served with a moderate action rod vs a fast action rod. The basic differences are a moderate rod throws a more open loop and at a lower line speed. The fast action rod throws a tight loop at higher line speed. For the beginner fast and tight is bad. It is much easier to cast a moderate action rod and learn how to contol the cast.
The moderate action rod also serves the purpose of being able to better protect light tippets when hooking big fish. On quite a few of our lakes here in oregon it is not uncommon to be using a 1.5 to 2lb tippets and hooking fish in the 4-7lb range. So with this in mind, a 6wt moderate action rod will cover most situations. (Winter steelhead, because of the bigger rivers and constant wind, an 8wt fast action rod will serve better. Need that line speed for distance and to be able to handle more wind. An 8.5 foot rod will serve most needs.
Reel: This just holds the line. If a lower priced reel is used and it has a drag, just set the drag tight enough to keep the spool from over running and use your palm for the drag. Most fishing I prefer a non drag reel. The clicker keeps the reel spool from over running and again use your palm to control drag. expiencive reels have a drag that can be used and able to protect a light tippets. If you are fishing heavier tippets, a any drag reel will work fine. Always put dacron backing on your reels. This not only gives your more line but it also puts your fly line at the top level of the reel.
Line: Match line and rod, ie a 6wt rod uses 6wt line. It is not a good idea to to up one line size on a moderate action rod. A fast action graphite rod can easily handle to next size line.
Most fishing can be done with a WF line. DT line, double taper, is used when very suttle short casts are needed such as sight fishing in very clear shallow water. WF line gives better contol in wind an being able to cast heavy flies.
Keep in mind that the wt of the rod does not mean that it is restricted to a certain size fish. A 4wt rod will land just as big a fish as an 8wt rod. Wind and water conditions detirmine what wt rod is best suited.
Good fishing outfits can be had without breaking the bank. My two favorite float tube rods cost about 100 dollars for both. One is an old Wallace thin wall glass rod of 8 ft I use for fishing Chironimids and the other is a im6 moderate graphite rod of 8.5ft that will protect any tippet i use. Both are 5-6wt rods. I use 8wt for bass do to throwing big heavy hair bugs. A 5-6wt rod will work for bass, just use smaller flies and bugs.
Before you head out to fish, tie a 3ft piece of 25lb mono to the end of your fly line. You can get 1-2 seasons with this before having to replace. The reason is you do not want to cut your fly line when changing leaders. Use fly tying thread to cover the knot and then add epoxy for a smooth knot that will slide through the rod guides. Buy tappered leaders, much easier than tying your own, and always tie on a tippet section to the end. By changing the tippet material your tappered leaders will last for quite some time.
If there are any questions please ask or if someone wants info on fishing our lakes and what to use please let me know.
Don't ask me how to catch halibut in Alaska on a fly rod because I failed when I tried. Have fun out there and be safe.
I don't fish for salmon and steelhead any more; must be an age thing, but on the north coast started that when people thought I was crazy. I was making my own fly lines and doing things by the seat of my pants. That I am aware of no one was catching chums and spring chinook on the fly before me in my area. I'm much smarter now and have learned not to force something that has little chance of working. The first little tip is to learn to pick and choose your battles. A fly rod is not a drift rod and no matter what you do, there a runs you can not fish and be successful. So following are just a few simple thoughts that will help give beginners a place to start on this wonderful way to fish.
Rods: There are 3 main actions to rods. Moderate, moderate fast, and fast. Someone learning to flyfish is better served with a moderate action rod vs a fast action rod. The basic differences are a moderate rod throws a more open loop and at a lower line speed. The fast action rod throws a tight loop at higher line speed. For the beginner fast and tight is bad. It is much easier to cast a moderate action rod and learn how to contol the cast.
The moderate action rod also serves the purpose of being able to better protect light tippets when hooking big fish. On quite a few of our lakes here in oregon it is not uncommon to be using a 1.5 to 2lb tippets and hooking fish in the 4-7lb range. So with this in mind, a 6wt moderate action rod will cover most situations. (Winter steelhead, because of the bigger rivers and constant wind, an 8wt fast action rod will serve better. Need that line speed for distance and to be able to handle more wind. An 8.5 foot rod will serve most needs.
Reel: This just holds the line. If a lower priced reel is used and it has a drag, just set the drag tight enough to keep the spool from over running and use your palm for the drag. Most fishing I prefer a non drag reel. The clicker keeps the reel spool from over running and again use your palm to control drag. expiencive reels have a drag that can be used and able to protect a light tippets. If you are fishing heavier tippets, a any drag reel will work fine. Always put dacron backing on your reels. This not only gives your more line but it also puts your fly line at the top level of the reel.
Line: Match line and rod, ie a 6wt rod uses 6wt line. It is not a good idea to to up one line size on a moderate action rod. A fast action graphite rod can easily handle to next size line.
Most fishing can be done with a WF line. DT line, double taper, is used when very suttle short casts are needed such as sight fishing in very clear shallow water. WF line gives better contol in wind an being able to cast heavy flies.
Keep in mind that the wt of the rod does not mean that it is restricted to a certain size fish. A 4wt rod will land just as big a fish as an 8wt rod. Wind and water conditions detirmine what wt rod is best suited.
Good fishing outfits can be had without breaking the bank. My two favorite float tube rods cost about 100 dollars for both. One is an old Wallace thin wall glass rod of 8 ft I use for fishing Chironimids and the other is a im6 moderate graphite rod of 8.5ft that will protect any tippet i use. Both are 5-6wt rods. I use 8wt for bass do to throwing big heavy hair bugs. A 5-6wt rod will work for bass, just use smaller flies and bugs.
Before you head out to fish, tie a 3ft piece of 25lb mono to the end of your fly line. You can get 1-2 seasons with this before having to replace. The reason is you do not want to cut your fly line when changing leaders. Use fly tying thread to cover the knot and then add epoxy for a smooth knot that will slide through the rod guides. Buy tappered leaders, much easier than tying your own, and always tie on a tippet section to the end. By changing the tippet material your tappered leaders will last for quite some time.
If there are any questions please ask or if someone wants info on fishing our lakes and what to use please let me know.
Don't ask me how to catch halibut in Alaska on a fly rod because I failed when I tried. Have fun out there and be safe.
. Thanks for posting all this info:clap:.
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