12# main line too light for chinook?

[Pole Bendahz]

Anyone think running 12# P-line flurocarbon as my main line is too light for a spinner setup when bank fishing rivers? I just tie the spinner straight to the mainline with a Palomar knot. A 8.5# steelhead snapped my line as I landed it and I lost a chinook the other day. I just really like how the 12 lb p-line casts and how stealthy it is, but am starting to wonder if I need to go all the way up to 20 for the fall

 

[rogerdodger]

I suggest using 20# normal mono in one of the green colors for salmon spinner leaders (Ultragreen or P-line CXX x-tra strong are my recommendations). salmon are not leader shy. save the fluoro for summer steelhead, you will just lose salmon trying to use it for them.

 

[EOBOY]

I think Tanner runs #30 lb. mono so his customers don't lose fish, he may say I'm wrong about that. 5 years ago when I returned to fishing I was running 20# P-line and lost a nice nook on the Salmon river. Went home and put on 50# main and went to 30# leader.

 

[DrTheopolis]

I run #10 mono for chucking spinners from the bank, and rarely have any trouble.

 

[troutdude]

I run #10 mono for chucking spinners from the bank, and rarely have any trouble.

Ditto. And as light as 8 lb. mono. Although bucks have teeth that, can slice your line.

 

[OnTheDrop]

It all depends on the type of fishing. For casting spinners from the bank I wouldn't use under 20lb, but it's one of the styles where you could get away with a lighter leader if you had the correct rod for it. I'd probably run 50# braid with a 20ft fluoro bumper of 20 to my spinner...

While fly fishing I taper down to a 12lb mono bumper...

For the regular boat stuff; Bobber, Kwiks, BackBouncing its 30-40lb mono without hesitation in the Fall.

My 2 pennies~

 

[hobster]

Bank fishing I use #25 mono with a #20 maxima leader mainly with a bobber. For spinners I wouldn't go under #20 like the boyz above said, especially in the fall in a river where flows can be high and you are often fighting the current which ads more stress to the line. They are not at all line shy but also consider the thicker the line the longer it takes to get your spinner/spoon down into the zone.

 

[Pole Bendahz]

Thanks for all the advice, If I want to have a chance at both steelhead and chinook, would 15-17# be the happy medium? I feel like casting on my 3000 reel really suffers with anything 20# and over. Mono just never really worked with my reel, the line memory was such a pain to deal with. I'm on that p-line bandwagon

 

[Native Fisher]

I wouldn't consider anything less then 20lb leader and 30lb main for a dedicated salmon set-up, at least in tide water.

 

[GaryP1958]

I run 30 to 40 Ande or Maxima mono on Penn Hi Speed Jigmasters while trolling tidewater, also I use 100 lb mono between a ball bearing swivel and the flasher it tends not to get the line twist. In fact I bought some coated cable with crimps and been making some of those up it sure cuts down on the twist., then from the flasher to herring I run 30 or 40 mono! Nooks afre not line shy so why take a chance! I use old school rods and reels hard to beat an 8 ft Sabre with a Jigmaster! I am old school and yes those are Model A Ford wheels!:thumb:

 

[troutdude]

and yes those are Model A Ford wheels!:thumb:

What a cool way, to re-purpose!

 

[Irishrover]

When I started concentrating on chinook 20lb line and leader were the rage. Now this is ocean and B-10 fishing. It has bumped up from 25 to 30 now I buy bulk 40lbs line and use it as main line and leader material. If you are boat fishing and want to release a fish 40lb test is great because you can control the line and fish in the water and not have the line snap. The fish doesn't swim off with a mouth full of hardware and the time spent releasing them is minimized. Bank fishing may be altogether different, but if you are trying to release a fish before the sea lion comes along 40lbs bulk Cabela's works great. Another nice thing about 40lbs line especially for folks old enough to a collect social security check, is that you can see it. That makes it easier to tie knots.:thumb:

GaryP1958 is spot on when he mentions using 100lbs mono between swivel and flasher. I use 125lbs mono and crimp it like I do with the tuna gear. If I am using lead as a dropper weight instead of a diver I use copper wire to fix the weight on.

 

[Big Nigiri]

I have been laughed at more than once for my "wrong" set-up, yet only loose fish because I screw up and not due to the gear. I recently got an unexpected invite to fish for Black rock and Blue rockfish in Bandon, OR. The only equipment I had was my 5' bass rod with #10 line. I tied on a borrowed #40 leader rig and hoped for the best, this was after all, more than backwards!! The fishing was hot and we caught our limit in about 30 minutes, and I never once broke my line. The person who owned the boat was pleasantly surprised in my rig.

Given a well balanced rod, reel and line along with the room and ability to fight the fish, you will be surprised how large a fish you can fight with light gear. Go with your lighter gear, you may loose some fish, but when you land one the thrill will be worth it!!!

 

[Steelheader4Life]

I run 12lb P-Line Flouroclear for what you are doing now, which is tossing spinners in super low water. Once the fall fish start to come in I run 65lb braid with 40lb Maxima UG leader. Springers are leader shy at times but fall fish don't care one bit. I used to run 25lb leader but after having a couple 30lb+ hawgs saw through my line in tidewater I switched over to 40.